Finally, the trek starts!

The trail takes us again on contouring mid-hills and streams while we inch bit by bit towards the cool temperate climate. The government's plans to extend the road to Yampuding have deteriorated much of the classic trail with landslides in places but the roads aren’t well-built either. As such, we will have to walk on the newly-opened road at times.

Post lunch we cross a wooden bridge at the Kabeli River and our trail meets with the older route that started from Taplejung. Further on, we come to the cardamom plantations in the Amji Khola Valley floor from where we climb to Yampuding, a mixed Sherpa, Limbu and Brahmin village.

We start early for a long day of hiking as we need to ascend more than 1,200m and cross the 3,000m milestone.

The trail from Yampuding is a steady climb along a mountainous trail through a nice shade of pine and rhododendron forest after which we reach a flat clearing in the forest at Chittre. A short ascent brings us to Lasiya Bhanjyang where we can see the southeast flank of Mt. Kumbakarna (7,711).

If road conditions, physique and weather are in favor, we could further move on to Tortong or just camp at Lasiya Bhanjyang.

If we stay overnight at Lasiya Bhanjyang, we come across a landslide which has eroded much of the mountainside. We climb another 200m and then descend a pine and rhododendron forest, with views of Kanchenjunga in the distant north, to a river crossing and make our way to Tortong, where we can rest for a while.

From Torongding the trail climbs through a deep, forested gorge, much of which is covered by a primeval of rhododendrons; which in spring is bright with hues of red and pink. A little further away, lies Cheram, a small Sherpa village amid a forest clearing with grassy terraces where we camp for the night.

If possible, we can hike atop a viewpoint to a panoramic view of Mt. Jannu, Kanchenjunga and Kabru.

Today marks another milestone as we pass the 4,000m mark into alpine territory above the treeline.

After a short climb through a rhododendron forest, we cross the Simbuwa riverbed and ascend for a little while through a sparse forest which opens up to an alpine meadow. From here the alpine territory starts and the Yalung glacier lies straight ahead while Mount Rathong erupts in view.

We hike along an ascending ridge above the glacier, at times even on the moraine, for about 1.5 hours to a glacial lake. From here on, the trail is a gentle incline of about 40 minutes through a plain to Ramche, a grassy meadow with wonderful views of Rathong, Kokthang, Kabru and the Singalila Range, which separates Nepal from India, on the horizon.

Hiking above the moraine, the trail curves to the left and passes beneath Mount Kabru; the sky opens up to a beautiful view of  Koktang (6147m), Rathong (6679m) and Kabru IV (7,318m) to the right and the tip of Kanchenjunga to the left. We then steadily ascend on a boulder-studded moraine which opens up to a grassy meadow. After a steep climb, we can see four of the five summits of Kanchenjunga;  left to right: Yalung Kang (8,505m), Kangchenjunga Main (8,586m), Kangchenjunga Central (8,482m) and Kanchenjunga South (8,476m). Ascending further on the banks of the moraine, we reach Oktang to an amazing view of Jannu and the whole Kanchenjunga range to the north, Kabru and other peaks to the south-west and a treacherous drop to the moraine floor just beneath us. Oktang is a shrine revered by Hindus and Buddhists alike and is decorated with prayer flags and a cairn where pilgrims perform puja.

After revelling in the views, we descend back to Ramche for lunch and hike back to Cheram.

Another long day of the trek, we start early in the morning. Hiking through sparse vegetation and a serenading view of Kanchenjunga, Kabru and Rathong, we tread sluggishly through large boulders and cliffs along an ever-increasing slant to Selele pass. Near the pass, the trail ascends steeply and Kangla Kang (5562 m) on the Nepal-India border and Yamghacha Khola valley down below comes into view.

We traverse further north on a gently undulating trail etched on the mountain slope towards Sine Lapcha La. The pass has a panoramic view of jagged peaks to Makalu in the east.

Towards Mirgin La, the trail descends a little on an open field of sorts and steadies to a notorious cliffside strewn with boulders. The north-east side of Kanchenjunga spurts into view to the west along with Nyukla Lachung, Pholesobi Thongje and Kumbhakarna (7710m) and a distant view of Chamlang (7352m), Makalu (8405m) and Chomo Lonzo (7540m) to the left.

We descend a few hundred meters to the flat grassy meadow of Selele Camp and rest for the night.

We descend sharply to the forest line from where we descend through mixed pine and rhododendron forest. North of the mountains and in the shade, the forest trail can be slippery as it descends sharply at times.

Once we reach a flat pasture ground, the trail gently undulates to a bridge crossing. Further lies Ghusa, a sherpa village with patches of cultivated land fed by the Ghunsa River.

Today, we leave the Kanchenjunga trail and head east towards a pass seldom used: The Nango La pass. For many generations, the pass was only traversed by merchants with yak caravans but in recent years it has become one of the main attractions of the Great Himalayan Trail.

We climb a steep trail along the stream through a rhododendron forest. Ahead, a clear drop brings us closer to the austere camp at Yak Kharka, a seasonal yak herder’s settlement.

The trail to the Nangola pass is an easy hike along a well-marked trail which takes about 2 hours. Once on the top, we can map out the Selele La trail and the whole of Kanchenjunga South.

Once over the pass, we descend to a bowl-shaped valley. We stay on the northern side of the river and pass through a thick rhododendron forest and bubbling streams to Yangma Kola Valley and our camp for the night.  Today we will walk for five to six hours.

We take a break and visit the village and monasteries or just rest.

Typical of a Tibetan household, the ground floor is used to store goods and animals while the upper part is residential. The walls are covered with dried yak dung used as a fuel staple for cooking and heating. Women made carpet weaving an important industry and Tibetan dragon, endless knot and bird-like print carpets are quite popular.

Overlooking the village is a little monastery, the second oldest after the monasteries of Mustang.

On the first part of the trail, we share the route that goes to the border along the Tamor Khola. It is common to cross yak caravans laden with goods from the Chinese border and though seldom, we may also cross paths with tractors and vehicles. Unlike other borders such as Mustang, Manaslu or Dolpo, this border is open all year at this time.

The second leg of the journey is better as we again tread on a gradually ascending mountainous trail with wilderness all around us. Crossing a wooden bridge over the confluence of Sanjung and Dingsham Khola, we arrive at Sanjung Kharka, a beautiful pasture and our camping ground.

We leave the lush vegetation and head towards slopes of rhododendrons that cover the mountains. A first climb leads to a large flat where the river eases off to a small stream. Here on, the steep slope is littered with juniper bushes and large boulders till the top which is marked by prayer flags and stone cairns. A short hike ahead lies Pass Camp, also called Lumba Sumba Phedi.

Though not very high compared to other Himalayan mountain passes, the Lumba Sumba Pass trail is unmarked and can be dangerous if there is deep snow. The trail is undulating with deep saddles and high ridges dotted with small lakes and is seldom used by locals.

The pass is a double collar which makes it undeniably one of the most beautiful passes of the Himalayas. Each pass offers a panorama on a summit of more than 8000m. From the first pass, we have a view of the whole Kanchenjunga massif, with the Jannu coming out particularly well and the whole chain going down towards Darjeeling.

From the second pass, it is Makalu that takes all the place, assisted by Makalu north and further north into Tibet.

Across the pass, we enter the pristine Makalu Barun conservation area. The route to Yak Kharka is a smooth descent with some steep sections.

Now, the valley remains on the axis of Makalu for two hours and offers a great view of the mountain with the sun shining brightly across it. The trail is a gradual descent through the Bhot Khola river after which we follow the river to Thudum.

Thudum is a very isolated village, atypical of the Arun River valley villages, where houses are very simple. The village was settled by herders because of its pristine pastures and its proximity to trade with the Tibetan border.

We start the hike through a mixed forest of rhododendrons, bamboo groves and small bushes along the Modek Chheju Khola. There are no human settlements on the undulating trail and the forest is one of the last remaining pristine wildlife refuge in Nepal. It is also home to the endangered Red Panda.

We leave the Modek Chheju Khola for a steep trail that undulates across 3 valleys to Himaloso Danda for a distant view of Chyamtang village to the west and Thudum village behind us. Again, the trail enters a mixed forest to the clearing at Yak Khara, a pastureland and our camp for the night.

Our trail continues through the dense rhododendron forest. There are no villages on the way but there are numerous branches and byways. After about three hours we reach Chhaurikharka (2671 m), a pasture, from where we can see Chyamtang village, Arun River, Ridhak village, and a dirt road that heads north over the Pisu La Pass (2765m ) to Kimathangkaat, the Tibet border.

From Chuarikhara, the trail descends for about two hours down to the Arun River. After crossing the suspension bridge over the Arun, it's about an hour uphill to Chyamtang village and an easy 45-minute hike further to Linggam. In Linggam, there are small houses where mainly Bhotiya people live.

Today the hike is a bit easier and refreshing as we walk among the cheerful chirping of the birds. Arun River Valley is one of the most popular bird-watching destinations and is home to many bird species.

After hiking for about 45 min on an undulating trail we reach the village of Chepuwa (2040 m), a large Bhotiya village. From here the trail is etched on a mountainous slope with winding turns. We can also see the Arun River far below. The trail takes us to Gimbar Village from where we can see the snowy peaks of the Makalu Mountains.

Here the hike is easy as we cross the Hangdak Khola to Hatiya Village ViewPoint and after about one hour we arrive at Hatiya after crossing the Sursin Khola. Hatiya is a small village with an old market where people from the Bhote tribe live, and also has a checkpoint to enter the Makalu National Park. From here, the Upper Route leads to Makalu Base Camp.

We descend to the banks of the Arun River as the trail runs along its right bank. After a 3-hour hike, we will reach the confluence of the Arun River and Barun River at Barun Dovan (1100 m), where we stop for lunch. The Dovan has a famous Mahadev Temple just opposite the great Barun Waterfall where Hindu Pilgrims flock around the second week of January. From here, the Lower Route leads to Makalu Base Camp. After lunch, we continue the trek towards Gola, our destination for the day, which will take you about 2 hours. 

Gola is a very small village with 12 houses where Sherpa, Rai, Gurung and Tamang live.

Our hiking days are finished and we now drive on a dirt trail to Num, a big village and starting point for the majority of expeditions and treks to Makalu. From Num, we drive on a well-maintained road, gravelled at places otherwise black-topped to Tumlingtar.

Our East Nepal journey ends here as we re-enter civilization and bid farewell to our crew with a celebration.

On this day, you have a free day in Kathmandu. You can take this opportunity to explore the vibrant city, visit cultural sites such as the UNESCO World Heritage Sites of Kathmandu Durbar Square, Swayambhunath Stupa, or Boudhanath Stupa. You can also indulge in some last-minute souvenir shopping or simply relax and soak in the unique atmosphere of the city. In the evening, a farewell dinner will be organized for you to celebrate the completion of your program and bid farewell to your fellow trekkers and guides.